In the Land of Flowers and Snow

With snow capped mountains and wild flowers, West Sikkim is a nature lover’s delight.

The Rathang river creates a magical atmosphere

Ranging from the river valleys of the Teesta and the Rangeet to the 8586m high Kanchenjunga, the third highest mountain peak in the world – Sikkim is one of India’s most beautiful states with its snowcapped peaks, lush green forests, 660 species of orchids and imposing Buddhist monasteries. I had visited Gangtok in 2003. Travellers had then told me about the beauty of the unspoilt western district of Sikkim with its orchids, birdlife, monasteries and panorama of the Eastern Himalaya (including the great peak of Kanchenjunga seen from Pelling, which was developing then as a tourism hub). By the time I had the opportunity to visit West Sikkim recently, Pelling had grown into a major and overcrowded hub but I learnt that, thanks to some initiatives towards helping the educated unemployed in the state by giving them opportunities in tourism, some small resorts and home-stay facilities had emerged offering charming and well-run accommodations.

From Bagdogra Airport, NH31A took us through the tea-planted plains called the Dooars and the forests of Mahananda sanctuary before rising among the hills and curving along the slopes, offering vistas of Teesta River on our left. Presently, it was time to part company with the wider looking NH31A along the Teesta to Gangtok as we took NH31A along the Greater Rangeet to Meli Bazaar and crossed the large suspension bridge from West Bengal into Sikkim.

Once across the bridge, the road ran moreor-less level along the Rangeet on our right and through forests of pine, Himalayan alder, chestnut, magnolia, rhododendrons, cherry trees on the slopes, passing terraced cultivation on the way. We turned off the highway for Rinchenpong soon after Reshi and a narrower road took us past two waterfalls and then one that was an absolutely delightful gossamer curtain of water drenching our car from a rocky outcrop as we drove below taking care not to slip on the wet road. Soon after the waterfall, we turned at Richenpong for Yangsum Farm, which we reached in the evening. We were welcomed by Thendup Tashi who told us that he manages this 44-acre farm and homestay with his sister, Pema. My room on the first floor was a beauty with a wooden floor, attractive wooden beds, tables and cupboards, and paintings on the walls. Dinesh and Melwyn shared the room downstairs which was also attractively appointed. Both the rooms had little sit-outs facing the hills. The housekeeping was what impressed me the most – the bed covers and

The colourful entry to the Pemayangtse monastery

sheets were neatly tucked in and the blankets invitingly laid out, with rolled up towels on the beds and teddy bears and other soft toys between the pillows enhancing the endearing look of the room. Explains Pema, “In Gangtok, I studied under Christian nuns and they were very good in teaching us good housekeeping and general upkeep of our rooms. Thanks to them I can do the rooms well and ensure the housekeeping lives up to the expectation of the guests’’. She showed us other rooms that were like a cottage with a tented canopy as a false ceiling and beautifully done interiors. We settled down to dinner in a semi-open dining area looking out at the heavy cloud cover. Starting with tongba, the traditional  Sikkimese  millet beer served  in  a  wooden

West Sikkim has several places of religious importance

pot with brass rings drunk using bamboo reed for the straw, we tucked into thukpa (noodle soup), momos, ningro churpi (Fern curry with locally made cheese), phing (glass noodles) with mushrooms and green peas, sisnu dal (nettle curry), and some vegetables that Thendup said comes from the creepers growing in the gardens. After breakfast, we walked around the property to look at the orchids and other flora. The trees trilled with bird calls and we could see thrushes, barbets, woodpeckers, bulbuls, babblers, sunbirds and an oriole on various branches. The walk was delightful but when we returned, our legs and feet were bleeding with leech bites!

Monasteries abound across West Sikkim

The next day, we started out for Soreng, where we met Dushan Rai at Deep Hotel, who took us for a short trek to his property on a hilltop. Though the climb was just one-and-a-half km, it was tiring, varying from flights of high steps to muddy trails slippery in the rains but it was interesting to hear Dushan explaining the medicinal value of ferns, nettles, creepers, plants, flowers along the trail. He also showed us some exotic pine trees that were dominating the landscape and not allowing local undergrowth and other trees to flourish, something we have experienced in so many places where Eucalyptus has degraded top soil or the Prosopis has taken over in Gujarat. Presently, we came to a lake with a view of the Barshey Rhododendron Sanctuary. We enjoyed watching a variety of birds in the vegetation around the lake before walking up to the Runchenbong Hamlet Resort, Dushan’s property. While the resort name suggests an upmarket resort, it actually comprises simple wooden lodgings with double bedrooms and dormitory halls, all with a heavenly view. Set

on a ridge about 6500 ft above sea level, parallel to and about the same altitude as Darjeeling town, it has a good view of Darjeeling straddling a hill and Kalimpong sprawling across another. After chicken saag, beans and buttered rice, we drove to Jorethang and then on the route to Reshi from where a sign marks the turn off for Bliss Resort at Biksthang, Chuchen, Mangalbarey, a steeply winding short stretch of road that turned into the portico of the Bliss Resort. We selected Tibetan food from the menu and had thukpa, chowmein and churpi saag (a dried cheese and green leafy vegetables curry), and then settled in our room. Our room was goodsized with comfortable wooden furniture and the bathroom had high-quality branded fittings. We awakened to a good view of the surrounding hills and after breakfast set off to explore the Pemayangste Monastery. The walk up the slopes to the monastery was rewarding for bird and butterfly spotting. Himalayan Griffon Vultures hovered overhead and a huge Mountain Hawk Eagle

Plantation workers on their way home in Pemayangtse

was perched on a tree. The monastery is flanked by old wooden and stone houses that are the monks' living quarters. Inside the monastery, the prayer hall has beautiful thangka or Buddhist cloth paintings &  murals, and  on the top floor is a fine collection of wood sculpture  depicting  theheavenly abode of Guru Rimpoche, a palace said to have been revealed in a dream. This is one of the two medieval monasteries of Sikkim with considerable importance.

FACTFILE How to Go : Deccan flies to Bagdogra Airport from where it is about 4 hours drive to West Sikkim. Where to stay:The Bliss Resort, Mangalbarey Basti. Ph: 033595 252284. Hotel Norbu Gang, Pelling. Ph: 9933004492. Elgin Mount Pandim, Pemayangtse. Ph: 03595 250353