The Abode Of Enlightenment

Steeped in history, Bodh Gaya has more than just a temple and a river to offer.


The huge 80 feet high statue of Gautam Buddha towers over Bodhgaya

Strolling through the bank of ancient Niranjana (Falgu) river, the first thing that caught my eyes were the riot of colours. Some monks wearing yellow robes, Buddhist pilgrims wearing maroon and tourists donning other colours added to the brilliance. Come winter and this abode of enlightenment blooms like a garden of flowers. It was apparently in Falgu where Siddharta used bathed regularly.

 


Thai Temple at Bodh Gaya

 
Besides it was this river where he had thrown the bowl of kheer (Rice pudding) given to him by the village lass Sujata. Soon after eating this kheer Siddharta had attained his enlightenment. Leaving the banks of Falgu as I start moving towards the Mahabodhi Temple, the chants of ‘Buddham Sharnam Gachchami, Sangham Sharanam Gachchani’ enter my ears. In and around the Mahabodhi Temple, many little shops sell cassettes and CD’s of religious songs and various other items related to Buddhism.

A flight of steps lead me to the inner courtyard of Mahabodhi Temple. On looking at this 170 ft high shrine anybody would praise the nameless ancient masons who had created this architectural wonder centuries ago. This truncated pyramidal shape temple dates back to the 2nd century AD.

In the courtyard, I find many monks moving around barefoot, others meditating without even noticing my presence. Tranquility prevails everywhere. I have a feeling of boarding a timemachine and going back to Emperor Ashoka’s time. In his days (2550 years ago) Buddha had pleaded against war and fought to establish peace. Looking at the Mahabodhi tree near the shrine one really feels that Bodhgaya continues to remain a living page of history. Under this peepal (Banyan) tree Siddhartha attained enlightenment. He became Tathagata.
This Mahabodhi tree still appears to be radiating an aura of abiding serenity, spiritual solitude and peace. It is believed that the original Bodhi tree sprang up during the day of Siddhartha’s birth.


Monks listen in rapt attention to a spiritual discourse
 
The Sun has already set. I cannot resist the temptation of witnessing the Arti carried out in the Mahabodhi Temple by the devout Lamas, Monks and others who consider Shakya Muni their supreme solace. Hurriedly I walk to the premises of the shrine to find hundreds of butter lamps and candles lighting there to create a divine atmosphere. The statues of Buddha attained serene glow due to the light of those lamps and candles. The holy sight arrested me. I stood still against a ancient wall. A group of monks were slowly moving with lamps in their hand and chanting “Buddham Sharanam Gachchami, Sangham sharanam Gachchami.”

  FACTFILE

How to Go : Deccan flies daily to Patna. Bodh Gaya is 112km from Patna. There isalso an airport at Gaya.

By Rail : Gaya station, the nearest railhead is 16 km away. Gaya is well connected by rail to all major Indian cities.

Where to stay : There are two moderately priced tourist bungalows Hotel Sidhart Vihar and hotel Buddha Vihar of Bihar Tourism Development Corporation near the temple.tel:0631-2200445. Hotel Lotus Nikko, Bodhgaya.

 

The Mahabodhi temple

 


 
Text & Photo By Arun Singh