Legacy of the Past

This ancient Buddhist township has hardly received the attention it deserves In recent years though, the popularity of the Buddhist trail has brought it back to limelight.

Ancient Ashokan Pillar

UNABLE TO RESIST the temptation of enjoying the cool breeze on a light sunny day in the land loved most by Lord Buddha, I sit beneath a mango tree. The ruins of India’s first republican form of government lie very near me. The bright rays of the sun filter through the leaves of the mango tree. The young owner of the small roadside dhaba named after Amrapali, says this mango orchard once belonged to the famous court dancer of Vaishali. The Buddha had come here for a meal along with his disciples. Nothing remains to be seen now. However, everything appears very alive. So alive that the gap of 2550 years seems to vanish. Suddenly I feel Amrapali herself is standing before me, pausing for a few minutes while preparing food for Lord Buddha, the pride of feeding the Lord clearly reflected in her eyes. The capital of the Lichchavi republic, Vaishali was very dear to Buddha. He created a Bhikkhu Sangh (order of hermits) on the basis of the Vajjisangh or as per Lichchavi tradition. He spent two rainy seasons at Vaishali and formed the association of female monks. Several laws of ‘Vinay’ were formulated here, and several people were converted here to Buddhism. In Buddhist literature, Vaishali has a special status in which the court dancer Amrapali also occupies a central place.

The last time Lord Buddha came to Vaishali at the age of 80, it was here that he had announced taking Mahaparinirvana meaning end of mundane life. That was the day of Purnima (full moon) in the month of Magha. The Mahaparinirvana sutta deals about it at length. The court dancer had come to know that Buddha was staying in her mango orchard – the present one. She went there immediately along with her attendents. Amrapali paid her tribute to the Lord and listened to his discourses. Moved by it, she urged Buddha with folded hands that the Lord should accept her invitation for food. The Lord mutely approved of it. Lichchavis of Vaishali, also aware of the Lord’s arrival, came to the mango grove in chariots where they met Amrapali too. She told them of Buddha’s approval to be her guest the next day. Though not believing her fully, the Lichchavis urged her to take substantial oney from them and in return allow them to cook food for the Lord. They got an emphatic no from her. She was not ready to let go her great opportunity in the entire Vaishali republic, so proud was she. On seeing the Lord coming to Amrapali’s house, the Lichchavis urged him to accept their food also. But he said no as he had agreed to receive the invitation of harlot Amrapali. Buddha relished the very tasty food prepared by Amrapali. At the end of the meal she said she would donate the mango grove to the Bhikkhu Sangh. The Lord accepted. This is the very same mango grove, but very few trees remain. The ancestral house of Amrapali lay somewhere near Ambara Chowk of present day Vaishali. An archaeological department signboard also stands here, confirming this fact.

Writer and thinker Nirmal Verma aptly said “ I think very often how sad is the city that has no ruins of the ancient past. Living there is as harrowing as meeting a man who has lost his memory – and has no past.” Little realizing the importance of ancient ruins, people of Vaishali destroyed them one by one. Ironically Indian democracy was born in this semi-rural patch of land. Even the Ashoka Stambha stands majestically at Kolhua village near here. It is known as Lion Capitol – the insignia of the Government of India. It was erected here sometime between 269BC and 232 BC. Vaishali is no less important to Jainism. Even Tirthankar Mahavir was born at Vasukund near Vaishali. He was a son of King Siddharth and Trishala. Mahavir spent nearly 30 years in Vaishali before leaving his royal palace in 532 BC. After 12 years he attained supreme enlightenment at Vanijya village. At the age of 72 , Mahavir attained nirvana at Pawa which is located in UP. Altogether eighteen regions of contemporary India had participated in it .

Vishwa Shanti Stupa

The ancient Vaishali Republic functioned more or less in a similar fashion prevailing in India today.The executive body comprised a Raja, a deputy Raja, the army chief and the minister of finance. There used to be a committee of nine states that was responsible for looking after foreign affairs. The building where the central legislature meetings were convened, was known as Sansthagar. It’s total membership strength was 7707. The legal system of the Lichchavi’s was extremely modern as there were several tiers of courts. An offender carried the chance of getting exonerated by any one of them. The head of the state used to be the supreme authority of the entire legal system. I am suddenly brought back to the present. The sun is about to set . A few local boys are collecting dried leaves. As you look around you find yellow rays all around you. The mustard plants are in full bloom. It is in this backdrop that a dome-shaped building catches my eye: the Vishwa Shanti Stupa has an absolutely milky white coating. This 131 feet high structure was raised in memory of Lord Buddha. It is 6 feet higher than the Shanti Stupa of Rajgir.